The Essence of Cuisine Lies in Soup Stock Secret of Good Niboshi is Human Input Rediscovering the Value of Niboshi

Rediscovering the Value of Niboshi

A staple food of the masses for generations, conditions surrounding the humble iwashi have changed dramatically in recent years. Maiwashi in particular has been notorious for the variability of the annual catch, which exceeded 4 million metric tons through the 1980s before declining sharply in the 1990s. The 2002 catch was a mere 50,000 metric tons, or 1% of the peak. Various factors have been blamed, from environmental pollution to changing ocean currents, but it is impossible to predict whether maiwashi catches will recover. Niboshi production has also started to decline with the downturn of the overall iwashi catch. Ironically, certain varieties of niboshi — whose production was originally a solution to an overabundant sardine haul — are today highly prized as a rare gourmet delicacy. Meanwhile the health benefits of niboshi are beginning to command attention. Docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) contained in iwashi is known to stimulate brain cells, making it effective in preventing senile dementia and contributing to eyesight recovery. The fish also contain eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), which has been found to promote the excretion of blood lipids and is effective in the prevention of arteriosclerosis and thrombosis. Japanese people are being encouraged to eat small fish — a rich source of calcium — to replenish chronically low calcium levels. People are rediscovering niboshi as a readily available source of nutrients lacking in the contemporary diet. Niboshi products that serve the needs of today's hectic lifestyle are constantly being developed, such as sachets of powdered niboshi for use in stock, and snack foods for teatime and to accompany alcoholic drinks. Products for health - conscious consumers such as salt - free and reduced salt niboshi are increasing, and many processing companies today do not use artificial antioxidant preservatives. Niboshi is crammed full of nutrients derived from iwashi, which has been described as “the rice of the sea.” While its presentation may evolve with the times, niboshi is sure to remain an important part of the Japanese diet and lifestyle for many years to come.

Processing niboshi 1. The iwashi catch is taken from the fishing boat to the processing plant by fish pump. The fish is lightly descaled while being washed in water. 2. After washing, the iwashi is laid out evenly in a steamer. The fish must be handled carefully to prevent deformity and ensure a consistent finish. 3. Once the steamer is full, it is placed in a cooker containing seawater and steamed for about five minutes. The cooker temperature is set just below boiling point at 98ºC to prevent the loss of nutrients and loss of shape caused by overboiling. The precision of the temperature setting makes a big difference in the taste. 4. The steamed iwashi is cooled in the open air for an hour before being placed in a drying chamber. In the traditional sun - drying method, the steamers are laid out by the sea on bamboo scaffolds so that the sea breeze assists the drying process. 5. The niboshi is ready after about 30 hours of drying. Freshly made niboshi is still soft and plump, with a faint aroma of the sea. 6. Selection prior to shipment. All niboshi - making processes require perseverance. 7. Niboshi ready for shipment is packed in 20kg boxes sorted by producing region and fish species and auctioned at market. It is said that at least five years’ experience is needed before one develops an eye for quality.

References Kenkoshoku Iwashi (“Iwashi — a health food”), Kogyo Okumoto, Rural Culture Association, 1986 Sekai no Gyoshokubunkako (“Fish - eating cultures around the world”), Makoto Miyake, Chuokoronsha, 1991 Iwashi no Shizenshi (“A natural document of iwashi”), Kikuo Hiramoto, Chuokoronsha, 1996 Acknowledgments Nagasaki Division of the Nagasaki Prefecture Fisheries Cooperative Association Nakashimaya, the flagship store of Nakashimaya Co., Ltd.

(Data collected October 2005)