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Of the approximately 330 varieties of iwashi in the world, the three that are commonly caught off the coast of Japan are maiwashi (Japanese pilchard; Sardinops melanosticus), urumeiwashi (big - eye sardine; Etrumeus teres) and katakuchiiwashi (Japanese anchovy; Engraulis japonicus). Niboshi is made from the smallest of these fish. Katakuchiiwashi makes particularly good quality niboshi.
According to data on fishery production by major fish species provided by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries in the Annual Statistics on Fishery and Agriculture Production (2002) report, katakuchiiwashi topped the charts with a catch of 443,000 metric tons in 2002, accounting for 10% of the total fisheries production. Combined with maiwashi and urumeiwashi, the annual iwashi catch came to 500,000 metric tons. About 40,000 metric tons of niboshi is produced each year from this abundant supply of fresh fish.
Nagasaki Prefecture in Kyushu in the south of Japan boasts the largest share of niboshi production in the country at around 30%. Niboshi is made year - round all over Nagasaki Prefecture from iwashi caught in coastal waters.
Superior iwashi for making niboshi have large heads and taper down in width toward the tail. Those with a concave belly with a general shape like a boomerang and silvery white in color are particularly tasty. Such niboshi is fresh and produces good quality dashi with minimal unpleasant aftertaste.
Freshness is key to making good niboshi. Since the fish spoils so easily, it must be processed as quickly as possible after it is caught. Processing and preservation must be carried out precisely to prevent oxidization and rancidity. Various techniques are employed in niboshi manufacture to maintain freshness.
Iwashi destined for niboshi production is auctioned while still on ice on the ship. After the auction, the fish are transported directly to the processing plant on the coast near the fishing port. They are immediately boiled in salt water, then dried for a day and a half in the sun or in a drying chamber. Although the process is simple, working with nature is challenging as well as being a race against time. Although processing plants are now largely automated, niboshi production still relies greatly on workers’ intuitive skills.
Says Manabu Ohkubo, head of the Nagasaki division of the Nagasaki Prefecture Fisheries Cooperative Association involved with niboshi production for many years, “Freshness can make or break niboshi production, which is only possible because of the hard work of many people, from fishermen to those working in processing, packaging, and sales. It’s a major industry for the whole region. The quality of niboshi changes from day to day depending on the quality of the fish available in a particular year and the skill of the people doing the processing. They say it takes 10 years before you can learn to make excellent niboshi and distinguish between different levels of quality. The quintessential umami imparted by niboshi can be described as the rich taste of nature created by the hands of the people whose livelihoods depend on the sea. |
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| Iwashi boats lined up in a fishing port. Fishing for iwashi used in niboshi takes place between dusk and dawn. In the peak season from June to August, these boats make several trips between the port and fishing grounds. |
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| Niboshi is usually sold prepacked in bags, but some specialist stores still sell it by weight. Customers can buy the exact quantities required of their chosen brands. |
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